FEATURE STORY
Courting the Wild Crustacean
By Marian Betancourt
Americans eat more than a billion pounds of shrimp a year, or about four pounds each, which is nearly double what they consumed 20 years ago. It's now America's favorite seafood, surpassing the long-reigning king of the can, tuna.
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iSanté Exclusive: Sourcing Spain
By Emily Gold
Every two years, Alimentaria, International Food and Beverage Exhibition transforms Barcelona, Spain, into a world food capital teeming with restaurateurs, chefs, and buyers searching out the top producers of the county’s food, wine, and equipment. This year the event featured nearly 5,000 exhibitors (70 percent of who were Spanish), who brought with them a range of products from beers to confectionaries.
The Intervin (wine and spirits) and Intercarn (meat and meat products) sectors of Alimentaria Barcelona 2008 occupied the largest amount of space, a dissection of territory fitting for the country that boasts the world’s largest cultivation of grape acreage, and is the number-two global consumer of meat.
In addition to the much-lauded Riojas, many excellent, value-driven wines were featured within the Intervin sector, including Monastrell from Murcia and Albariño from Galicia. Jamón was the star of the Intercarn] sector, with pigs’ legs densely lining the aisles. Renewed interest in the deep maroon, heavily marbled Iberian hams evidenced the recent relaxation of trade restrictions on the export of cured meats.
The wines, meats, cheeses, and olive oils presented at this year’s Alimentaria Barcelona were representative of a culture rooted in the past yet evolving toward the future. Beyond being a bacchanalian festival of the senses, the event presented the Spanish palate in context of the country’s history and tradition.
If your mouth is watering, mark your calendar for Alimentaria Barcelona 2010!
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Using a Standardized Recipe
A standardized recipe is one that will produce a known quality, quantity, and consistency of food items every time. A standard recipe card should contain a detailed recipe; a color photo of the presentation; preparation time; pickup station in the kitchen; required cutlery; possible allergy or dietary notes; a glossary of terms; and a financial breakdown of ingredient costs, menu price, and food-cost percentage.
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Do you have a tip that you'd like to share with fellow iSanté readers? E-mail your idea to tgerstel@santemagazine.com today, and don't forget to include your name, establishment, and contact information.
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Roasted Pepper Tart
Yield: 12 servings
All-purpose flour: 1-1/2 cups
Salt: 1/8 tsp
Butter, cold: 1/2 cup
Water: 3 Tbsp
Red peppers, havled and seeded: 3 medium
Bell peppers, halved and seeded: 2 medium
Olive oil: 1/3 cup
Fresh oregano, minced: 4-1/2 tsp
Monterey Jack cheese, shredded: 2 cups
Ripe olives: 2-1/4 oz
1. In large bowl, combine flour and salt; cut in butter until crumbly. Gradually add water, tossing with fork until dough forms a ball. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
2. Broil pepper 4 inches from heat until skins are blistered and blackened. Immediately place peppers in bowl, cover, and let stand for 15-20 minutes. Peel off and discard charred skin. Coarsley chop peppers; place in bowl, add oil and oregano, then toss to coat. Set aside.
3. Roll dough to fit 12-inch pizza pan. Transfer dough to pan and pric thoroughly with fork. Bake at 350 F for 30-35 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool completely.
4. Sprinkle one cup cheese over crust. Sprinkle with pepper mixture and remaining cheese. Arrange olives around edge. Bake at 350 F for 10-15 minutes or until cheese is melted. Serve immediately.
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Hazelnut Eclairs
Courtesy of Albert Uster Imports
Yield: 50 eclairs
Choux Pastry
Water: 1 qt
Butter: 14 oz
Salt: 1/4 oz
All-purpose flour: 1 lb 8 oz
Eggs: 20
Hazelnut Vanilla Cream Filling
Zurimix Pastry Cream: 8 oz
Whole milk: 1 qt
Confiseur d'Or Dark Hazelnut Praline Paste, small: 4 oz
Heavy cream: 14 oz
1. To make Choux Pastry: Bring water, butter, and salt to a boil. Add sieved flour, stirring constantly. Continue to roast dough until it comes cleanly away from the sides of the pan, then cool. Beat eggs and gradually add to mix; continue beating until paste is smooth and shiny.
2. To make Hazelnut Vanilla Cream Filling: Combine pastry cream powder and milk, mix at high speed 3 to 4 minutes. Blend the praline paste into the cream, then fold in whipped cream.
3. To make Hazelnut Eclairs: Pipe the Choux Dough into desired shapes and sprinkle with sliced hazelnuts then bake.
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Celebrating Women, Giving Back
On May 4 six top female chefs from the Chicago area will prepare the Twelfth Annual Girl Food Dinner at West Town Tavern. Event-founders Chef Susan Goss and Drew Goss, the restaurant's owners, will donate all proceeds from the evening to benefit the Greater Chicago Food Depository. Chefs participating in the dinner with Chef Goss include: Chef Christine McCabe, Blue Plate; Chef Jill Barron, Mana Food Bar; Chef Karen Armijo, Gary Comer Youth Center; Chef Leah Caplan, The Washington Hotel; and Chef Nadia Tilkian, Maijean Restaurant. The evening's wines will be selected and presented by Mindy Trafman of cru wine bar and café and Chef Caplan has created a signature cocktail featuring her own Death's Door Gin.
The six participating chefs have created special dishes just for The Girl Food Dinner and the menu includes:
Trio of Appetizers
Smoked Whitefish with Herbed Crêpe
Tongue and Pickled Ramp Canapé
Spring Asparagus Salad
Cocktail
Death's Door Gin Cocktail with Cucumber, Lime, and Soda
Entree
Grilled Leek and Goat Cheese Tartlet with Roasted Pepper Coulis and Sweet Pea Tendril Salad
Louisiana Crawfish Cake with Green Garlic- Vegetable Brunoise, Julienne Asparagus, and Orange-Chili Vinaigrette
Citrus-Crusted Alaskan Halibut with Fennel Salad and Fennel Broth
Braised Wagyu Beef Shortrib with Herb Salad and Rhubarb Butter
Dessert
Cherry Olive Oil Upside Down Cake
Honey-Hazelnut Semi-Freddo
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Cyrano's Bistrot Crepe & Beer Festival
Cyrano's Bistrot, in Chicago, turned to the Brittany Region for a celebration of April in Paris. The establishment's First Annual Crepe & Beer Festival (April 22 through 26), saw Chef Didier present several savory and sweet crepe dishes:
Smoked Salmon, Crème Fraiche, and Spring Onion Frites
Grilled Pear, Walnuts, and Roquefort Cheese
Traditional Coq au Vin and Grilled Asparagus
Provencal Ratatouille, Olives, Eggplant, and Goat Cheese
Toasted Two Chocolate Sauces and Pralines
Cyrano's also featured 20 Beers from around the world, including organics from small houses, offered by the bottle, by the glass, and in a series of flights.
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2008 US Barista Championship Winners
After hours of fierce competition at the 2008 United States Barista Championship (USBC) in Minneapolis, Minnesota, Kyle Glanville of Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea in Los Angeles (pictured, left, with USBC Chair Tracy Allen) took home top honors. The Specialty Coffee Association of America’s contest took place at the organization’s Twentieth Annual Conference & Exhibition, May 5.
The United States Barista Championship, hosted by Krups, is the industry’s most-watched contest for coffeehouse professionals. In the final round challengers used three-group La Marzocco espresso machines to prepare and serve three orders - an espresso, a cappuccino, and an original coffee drink - all within 15 minutes. Contenders are expected to deliver a polished commentary that explains their technique and justifies their selections as they work. Seven certified judges granted points for station cleanliness, taste, beverage presentation, technical skills, and total impression.
As champion, Glanville received a trophy, $1,000 in cash, and an all-expense-paid trip to the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe’s 2008 World Barista Championship in Copenhagen, Denmark, June 19 to 22.
Pete Licata of PT’s Coffee Roasting Company, in Overland Park, Kansas, took second honors, and last year’s champion Heather Perry of Coffee Klatch, in San Dimas, California, won third.
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“Top Chef” Finalist Lands Weekly Television Cooking Segment
Executive chef of San Diego's The Oceanaire Seafood Room and Bravo “Top Chef” finalist Brian Malarkey has joined television show "San Diego Living" for a weekly cooking segment. Each Friday at 9 a.m., Chef Malarkey will prepare his award-winning culinary creations for the audience, showing them how to prepare dishes in their kitchens.
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Four Chefs Winners in California Date Chef Competition
Four top Coachella Valley chefs came away winners in the California Date Chef Competition, held at Fantasy Springs Resort Casino in Indio, California, on April 27.
The First Place Appetizer trophy went to Alain Redelsperger, executive chef at The Vintage Club, for his Duet of Foie Gras and Date Chutney; Leanne Kamekona, executive chef at Rancho Las Palmas Resort & Spa won the First Place Entrée trophy for her New Mexico Red Chile & Date Crusted Brandt Filet Mignon; the First Place Dessert trophy went to Joel Rettzo, pastry chef at Spotlight 29 Casino, for his Trio of Dates: Date Shake, Apple Tart, Date Truffle Log; and the Best of Show winner was Roy Luna, executive chef at Azul Restaurant & Bar at The Trilogy in La Quinta, California, for his Date and Moroccan Spiced Pork Lollipop.
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More Side Effects of Higher Food Prices
As food prices continue to rise, some restaurants are ditching their use of trans-fat-free oils in favor of lower-cost trans fats, reports Globe and Mail. In Canada, restaurateurs are warning that the situation could get worse before it gets better; prices for various types of vegetable oils have risen from ten to 50 percent in the past few months alone. Rob Greene, program resource manager for Effective Resource Management Inc., which collects used vegetable oils for conversion into alternative fuels, said that about 20 restaurants have "indicated they're having difficulty or they're switching to shortening." The Canola Council of Canada (CCC) said that restaurants probably won't save a significant amount of money by switching. "There's probably not a lot of opportunity for substituting oils because all of the oils are expensive," said CCC vice president, Dave Hickling.
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Barry Callebaut Expanding into Asia-Pacific
Leading cocoa and chocolate-products manufacturer Barry Callebaut has received approval from Malaysia's Ministry of International Trade & Industry to purchase a 60 percent stake in KLK Cocoa from Kuala Lumpur Kepong Berhad. KLK Cocoa will now be called Barry Callebaut Malaysia Sdn Bhd, with the full management team from KLK Cocoa transferring to Barry Callebaut Malaysia.
Source: Institute of Food Technologists
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Prices of Pork and Chicken Expected to Rise
Food-industry analysts are predicting that overall food inflation could as much as double this year thanks to the rising costs of fuel, corn, and soybeans. And that increase will cause the price of chicken and pork to skyrocket.
In 2007, food inflation rose from 2.4 percent (in 2006) to four percent. And while beef prices reflected that jump, pork and chicken prices remained fairly stable. That trend can no longer continue, however, as pork and chicken producers continue to lose money. To make up the difference, they are beginning to decrease the number of animals slaughtered, creating a rise in prices through the simple process of supply and demand. Privately-held chicken producer Fieldale Farms Corp. is cutting its production by five percent starting in a few weeks. The company's senior vice president, Tom Hinsley, said he expects higher chicken prices by mid-summer. "They will have to rise, big time, otherwise there will be no chicken," he concluded.
"American consumers are only jut beginning to feel the impact of sharply higher food prices," commented Clint Rivers, chief executive at Pilgrim's Pride Corp., the nation's largest chicken producers. Rivers said his company plans to reduce weekly chicken processing by five percent in the second half of the year. Tyson Foods Inc. also warned of an increase in pork and chicken prices, forecasting that its expenses will rise by $1 billion this year.
Analysts are not predicting any further increase in the already high beef prices. Jim Hilker, agricultural economist at Michigan State University, said that while he's "not sure beef prices will go up a lot," he is certain "they won't come back down."
Source:Washington Post
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King Salmon Substitutions
With the likely ban on king salmon fishing looming, chefs are looking for agreeable substitutes for this popular fish. "It doesn't look like we're going to be doing anything with salmon," said Parke Ulrich, executive chef at Waterbar in San Francisco, noting that he would "rather skip it" than use farmed salmon in his dishes.
Seafood buyer Ted Iijima said that wild coho salmon (silver salmon) from Alaska, Washington, and Canada will be purchased to help make up for the missing king salmon. Sockeye salmon, from the same areas, will also show up in the marketplace. It's the leanness of these species that will require chefs to adjust their recipes. "You've got to be careful," warned Iijima. "Serve them while they're hot, because once they're cold, the meat gets dry. You might have to add a sauce so the texture isn't like cardboard."
West Coast Seafood author Jay Harlow advised chefs who want to closely replicate the king salmon to purchase the Pacific Northwest coho: "It's smaller and a tiny bit leaner," he said, "but if you want really good-tasting wild salmon, that's as close a you can get to the California king in flavor and fat." Bay-Area seafood wholesaler Monterey Fish's Tom Worthington agreed with Harlow, saying that the coho compares with an early season king salmon that hasn't fattened up yet.
Source: San Francisco Chronicle
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from the may 2008 issue of santé magazine |
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Blackberry Farm's 2008 Food & Wine Calendar and Event Menus
Chefs from around the country have been venturing out of their own kitchens to the town of Walland, Tennessee (about one hour outside of Knoxville). Here, they excitedly take up the rold of guest chef at Blackberry Farm, a Relais & Chateaux property that offers them the opportunity to mingle with guests and teach some of their tips and tricks in the kitchen.
View the calendar of events >>
Download a special event menu >>
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Chocolates and Confections: Formula, Theory, and Technique for the Artisan Confectioner
Peter P. Greweling and The Culinary Institute of America
Wiley
International Association of Culinary Professionals 2008 Cookbook Awards Winner
Written by master confectioner Peter Greweling of The Culinary Institute of America, this 400-page hardcover is a comprehensive guide to the ingredients, theory, techniques, and formulas needed to create every kind of chocolate and confection. Illustrated throughout with nearly 200 full-color photographs and illustrations, Chocolates & Confections offers accessible explanations of theory as well as illustrated step-by-step guidance on technique, from tempering chocolate to candying fruit. It also includes charts that pinpoint common candy-making pitfalls and how to avoid them, guides to the best quality chocolate and other all-natural confectionery ingredients, as well as information on packaging and storage.
Buy at amazon.com >> Fish Forever: The Definitive Guide to Understanding, Selecting, and Preparing Healthy, Delicious, and Environmentally Sustainable Seafood
Paul Johnson
Wiley
International Association of Culinary Professionals 2008 Cookbook Awards Winner
Book Description: Few people know more about fish than Paul Johnson, whose Monterey Fish Market in San Francisco supplies seafood to some of the nation's most celebrated chefs, from Alice Waters, Thomas Keller, and Michael Mina to Todd English, Daniel Boulud, and Alain Ducasse. . . . Written for people who love seafood but worry about the overfishing of certain species as well as mercury and other contaminants, Fish Forever pinpoints today's least-endangered, least-contaminated, best-tasting fish and shellfish species. Johnson provides in-depth guidance on 70 different fish along with 96 stylish international recipes that highlight the outstanding culinary qualities of each. . . . Complete with over 60 beautiful color photographs, how-to tips, and fascinating sidebars, Fish Forever is a must-have kitchen resource for seafood lovers everywhere.
Buy at amazon.com >> The Kitchen Table: Brennan's of Houston
Randy Evans
Bright Sky Press
Beating out 2,689 other contenders in this year's Eleventh Annual Independent Publisher Book Awards, Executive Chef Randy Evans, of Brennan's of Houston, recently took home the gold medal for his new cookbook, The Kitchen Table. The mouthwatering hardcover, filled with images, stories, and recipes collected from nearly 40 years' worth of menus, is divided into nine chapters beginning with lagniappe (a small taste given gratuitously, thus an amuse), moving through soups, salads, charcuterie, seafood, and meats, then finishing off with desserts and special house cocktails. For those in the industry, it defines the value of offering a "chef's table" experience for guests and provides the inspiration to do so.
Buy at amazon.com >> The Food Encylopedia
Jacques L. Rolland and Carol Sherman
Robert Rose
Chefs who shop the world for ingredients, ideas, and inspiration will find the new Food Encyclopedia by Jacques Rolland, Carol Sherman, and other contributors(published by Robert Rose) an astute companion. With more than 8,000 entries on foods, beverages, tools, techniques, and notable people of the food world, this 700-page reference guide is the most comprehensive available. The hardcover describes a multitude of terms such as murmura, rhea, lussekatter, and many more culinary exotica. In addition, readers can cull the world of food personalities, including profiles on the real Chef Boyardee, Roy Plunkett, Eisai, and others. Easy cross-referencing, large type, color illustrations, and a listing of multiple names and spellings all add to the guide's smart usefulness.
Buy at amazon.com >> Truffles
Elizabeth Luard
Francis Lincoln Limited
Focusing on the subterranean fungus known as the truffle, the award-winning author, Elizabeth Luard, digs deeply into the mystique and history of this "nugget of vegetable matter . . . that looks like a lump of roughly cracked earth" yet somehow has become the world's most beloved, highest-priced culinary jewel. Truffles is Laurd's 176-page answer to the question of how and why the homely truffle arouses such passionate admirers, sending them "scrabbling in the earth or emptying the purse---whatever it takes to hold it in the hand, to smell, to taste, to savour."
Buy at amazon.com >>
The Art of Simple Food: Notes, Lessons, and Recipes from a Delicious Revolution
Alice Waters
Clarkson Potter
This 416-page hardcover from Chez Panisse Founder Alice Waters includes recipes chosen to enhance and showcase great ingredients. Waters' philosophy on everything from stocking your kitchen to mastering fundamentals and preparing delicious, seasonal inspired meals all year long are included.
Buy at amazon.com >> Amazing Dairy-Free Desserts
Penny Wantuck Eisenberg
Surris Books
This 216-page paperback includes a comprehensive collection of original dairy-free desserts as well as information about dairy-allergic, lactose intolerant, kosher, and other individuals who want to restrict diary. Recipes include ice cream, pound cake, brownies, and more.
Buy at amazon.com >>
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